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by Robert Fleming
As the warm weather washes across south Texas we are drawn to our gardens and the hope of the bounty late spring and early summer brings. One of those favorites of Texas food lovers has got to be the tender shoots of fresh asparagus. There are few simple things in the world as regal as a plate of freshly poached asparagus. For me it is almost transformative taking the mundane dinner to another level. Think about it, you’ve started describing a meal you’ve prepared and folks are thinking, “sounds good,” but when you throw that asparagus (that you gave a quick ride on the char grill) in to the mix, those folks begin to smile.
The first recorded mentions of asparagus date back to as early as 3000 B.C. in Egypt. Syrians, Romans, Greeks and Spaniards ate it fresh in season and dried it for winter consumption. Its first appearance in Europe was at French monasteries with 1469 being the first recorded cultivation. It appeared in English and German cultivation in the mid-1500’s. The first reports of cultivation in the U.S. is around 1850 in California.
It would follow that a vegetable so regal should have its own place in the cultural festival spectrum. The week-long fest in Nuremberg Germany features a fastest peeler contest with contestants cheered on by the audience. There is no doubt the copious amounts of beer and wine consumed spur the audience to cheer them on to victory. I was lucky enough to be in Munich back in 2011 on May 1st-May Day-and it is a big deal in Munich as a matter of fact it’s a holiday. Folks go to the markets and squares to represent for their particular cause. On that sunny warm May Day, we were at Munich’s famed Viktualienmarkt: an interesting cross between a farmer’s market, gourmet market and food court all outdoors right in the ceneter of town.
So here is the scene: Anarchists, PETA supports, La Leche league, youth soccer, you name them! All were there along with row after row of farm fresh produce, eggs, meats and those famous Munchener wursts. And right in the middle of it all, (being consumed by this disparate crowd), was Asparagus in all its glory. I’d be willing to bet this scene has played out in pretty much the same way for the past couple hundred of years. As we moved about the city, every restaurant, café and guest haus had a special “spargel” menu featured in numerous dishes. At the venerated Dallmayr delicatessen, asparagus receives its due: a terrine of duck liver and asparagus mousse was the perfect amuse as we made our way through the aisles and cases of this world-class establishment. Back home in Hart , Michigan there is an annual fest complete with a parade and the requisite Asparagus Queen. Stockton, California has a fest as well.
While green asparagus is more recognized, white has a mystique of its own. As a young chef, the only time I saw white asparagus was in a # 5 can–usually a European import. By the mid 80s white asparagus was becoming more accepted and could be found in most large cities at a “gourmet” market. Today, wider cultivation gives us the ability to find the “Edible Ivory” in hometown markets. Oh, and how do they grow white asparagus? As its shoots emerge, a sandy loam is piled around and on top of the spears preventing sunlight from reaching the emerging shoots. No sun. No chlorophyll. Hence, no green! The taste difference between green and white is subtle. I find the almost grassy subtle flavor of green asparagus to be quite refreshing while white is a bit mellow and can border on bitter.
When buying, there are several factors to consider. Asparagus, like all vegetables, continues to mature after harvest. It aspirates (breathes) releasing both water and C02. Look for asparagus with moist ends and standing in water or in a bed of crushed ice. Look for spears with tight tips. If a pass of the finger release small buds they have seen better days–can you say soup? Once home, wrap the base with a moist paper towel and place in a plastic bag. Prepare and consume it within 48 hours.
A quick cook, Spargel is versatile: blanching for salads or poaching for sides have been the classic methods. My favorite is the aforementioned char grill but I’ve also shaved them and given a quick deep fry; used in a stir fry; or, tossed with Olive oil for a quick ride under the oven broiler. The finest texture and strongest but delicate taste resides in the tips you’ll want to be sure not to overcook them.
All this talk about asparagus makes me want to get after it! I hope you enjoy one of my favorite recipes, Asparagus & Brie Omelet. sa
